Troubleshooting Wood Floor Problems
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Scratches
Dull areas due to traffic wear patterns
The most important thing about scratches is to find out what causes them. Then take some preventive measures to remedy the problem. Scuffing or high traffic wear areas mean gritty shoes, dirty floors, or furniture without protectors.
What can YOU do? If your floor has become lightly scratched and not worn down to the raw wood, sometimes light buffing with a white polishing pad can shine up a dull (scratched) area. Often the damage becomes less obvious. Several manufacturers make “Refresher” products (See Bona Refresher) which are diluted floor finishes made for the homeowner to apply themselves. Re-coating the floor will remove most scratches that have not gone through the finish.
One or two light scratches
Sometimes an accident occurs leaving a light scratch appears on the floor. This may be from grit under a chair leg or a box being dragged on the floor. It shows as a small light (sometimes white) mark. Wipe the scratch with vegetable oil on a paper towel to darken the light line. The oil will make the scratch less obvious until the floor is re-coated or refinished.
Deep Scratches or Gouges
Scratches that have penetrated the finish and exposed the raw wood can not be repaired easily. The only solution is to putty the damaged board and wait until the floor is refinished. Repairs often make the damage more obvious because the newly repaired wood does not match the existing, older floor color. Consult your flooring professional (list available at National Wood Floor Association) when the scratches are considered major.
Black Shoe Marks
Some shoes have black rubber soles which do leave black lines on the floors. A trick we learned from airport maintenance crews is to use a tennis ball like an eraser. IT WORKS!!! Also certain rubber soled shoes rubbed over the mark get the same result. A white polishing pad will also work.
Gaps
Seasonal Gaps
Some gaps may appear between boards during the heating season. During the heating process, the floor will dry out, boards will shrink in width, and gaps may form between boards. Later when the heat is turn down or off, the boards expand and the gaps close. You need to observe the floor through a one year cycle to determine what is gong on with the floor. This is a normal occurrence which can be minimized by installing a humidifier on the heating system which will keep the air a constant moisture content (30% to 50%).
Permanent Gaps
Gaps that do NOT close up are abnormal. These can be caused by: -Improperly stored wood prior to installation at the distributor. -Wet masonry, plaster, concrete, paint, tile work done while wood is delivered and being installed. -Installation of crooked boards which should have been discarded. -Heating unit not working properly at the time of delivery/installation. -The humidity may be too low during the heating season.
NOTE: The temperature and humidity should be kept at normal living conditions even when unoccupied before, during, and after installation of wood floor.
Prevention: The flooring professional/installer needs to make sure that the wood, sub floor, and air have reached a moisture equilibrium before it is laid. Using a moisture meter is the only way to determine when this level has been reached.
Solution: If one of these scenarios has taken place and permanent gaps appear, small gaps can be filled with putty. Large variety of putties are available for wood floors. Large gaps (larger than 1/16”) can not be filled. Board replacement may be necessary. Seek the advice of a flooring professional or NWFA certified wood flooring inspector (list available at National Wood Floor Association) when the scratches are considered major.
Cupping
Problem Cupping
Causes: Cupping is caused by one thing: Moisture. Excessive moisture on the underside cases expansion and this in turn cause the edges raise. Demonstration: Cut a narrow piece of paper and moisten one side. It will immediately curl up. This is what is happening to your floor.
Contributing Factors: No vapor barrier in crawl space, moisture in crawl space, foundation vents blocked, plumbing leaks ( i.e. ice maker, dishwasher, toilet), excessive use of water during cleaning process (no string or sponge mops). You must find the problem before attempting to fix the floor.
Solutions: The floor needs to be dried out either requiring at least 3 months of constant heating of the area or by hiring a water damage specialist who can dry the floors in a week or so. Most floors will dry after one full winter heating season. After the floor is dried to a normal percentage, the floor may be refinished.
Normal Cupping
Causes: Some cupping is considered normal especially in wider plain sawn planked floors over 4”. On any plain sawn boards, the growth rings of the tree travel in a slightly curved pattern from one side of the board to the other. With seasonal changes in climate and humidity, the wood responds by adding and loosing moisture causing the wood to cup. This can happen to a 21/4” board as well.
Solutions to normal cupping: A humidifier attached to the heating system will keep a home at constant humidity that is normal to the region. Cupping often looks worse than it really is if viewed across a large clear expansive of flooring with a bright light source. Furniture and rugs will break up the angle of view. The heater needs to be working and set normal heating temperature (60 - 80 degrees) even if the home is not occupied. The moisture content of the air needs to be 30% to 50%. Large changes in heating temperature affect the moisture/humidity conditions of the room. Colder air adds moisture while warmer air subtracts moisture.
Dull Areas (not due to wear patterns)
This is a tough situation. Before you try to solve the problem, make sure that a matte or satin finish has not been applied to the floor to begin with. If your floors were shiny and now they are dull, there are some common causes. The first thing to notice is whether the whole floor id dull or just a certain area.
Whole floor is dull:
- This is often a cleaning problem. Your cleaning method may be leaving dirt or a film behind, causing the floor to look dull. Some grocery store cleaners leave a residue behind which over time turn the floors dull. USE ONLY CLEANING PRODUCTS MADE SPECIFICALLY FOR HARDWOOD FLOORS. These products can be purchased here.
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Older waxed floors can become dull, also. If wax was used to maintain a floor, it may only need to be buffed or re-waxed. However, if the floor is a “top-coated, no-wax” floor as many pre-finished floors are DO NOT USE WAX.
Dulling is localized:
- Cleaning can still be an issue in a localized situation. Cooking areas, dining areas, and entry doors are places that collect food spills, dirt and grit.
Surface wear in high traffic areas can cause dulling in localized areas. This usually happens around tables, chairs, a sink, a refrigerator and sliding doors. Graying of the floor is a sure sign of a worn surface coat. This means the floor finish is worn down to the raw wood and needs to be refinished. If the floor is NOT gray yet, re-coating the whole room with one more coat of the same finish is often possible. Re-coating is an easy process and less expensive than re-sanding.
Black Stains Due to Pet Urine
Black stains due to pet urine are usually found when someone removes carpet and wants to refinish their wood floors. A flooring professional can remove the stained boards and patch in the affected areas. It is not very expensive considering the value that the wood floor has added to your home. Some of these stains will sanded out but many especially in white oak floors will not. If you use a paint scaper, pull across the area a few times and if this exposes clean raw wood then it will be removed during the re-sanding process. If it does not scrape off, then board removal is necessary. Most white oak floors will need board replacement. NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, USE REGULAR BLEACH OR WOOD BLEACH on these or any stains on wood floors. It will not remove stains. It will only damage the cells structure of the wood and make the stain more obvious. You will be damaging the floor.
Rug Marks
Causes: Many people are shocked when an area rug is moved and there is an outline of the rug on the floor. Luckily there is no need for panic. If you remove the rug completely, the color will blend eventually but it will take awhile. So be patient!! This happens because the sunlight hits one part of the “uncovered” floor and does not reach the floor under the rug.
Solution: This discoloration can be avoided by moving the rug often or by using a finish with a UV block when it is time to refinish.
Indoor Potted Plant Marks/Christmas Tree Damage
Causes: Water marks that appear as black rings on the floor are usually caused by flower pots left in direct contact with the floor. Fertilizers, soil, and plant sprays can also discolor finishes if they are accidentally spilled on the floor. Always repot and apply chemicals in another area without wood floors.
Solution: Never put potted plants even with waterproof saucers directly on the floor. Place all potted plants on a waterproof saucer or tray. The plant and saucer must then be placed on top of a trivet or stand to leave and air space between the wood floor and the pot and saucer. This will prevent condensation of moisture on the saucer from contacting the wood floor. It will also let you observe if the plant is over-watered or if water is spilled on the wood floor.
Wall Paint on Wood Floors
There are a couple of things to find out before tackling the clean up of the floor. First, what kind of paint was spilled…oil base or latex? Second, what kind of finish do you have on your floor…wax, oil base topcoat, water-base topcoat? Here are some suggestions:
Latex Paint
On water base floor = use a scrub pad made for wood floors and lightly scrub the area of paint with a wood floor cleaner.
On an oil base floor = Use a product called Goof-Off to clean it off.
On a waxed floor = Use a wax stripping product, then re-wax.
Oil Base Paint
On a water base floor = Use the scrub pad made for wood floors and wood floor cleaner.
On an oil base floor = Use lacquer thinner on a rag; On a waxed floor = Use a wax stripping product and re-wax area.
On a waxed floor = Use a wax stripping product, then re-wax.
Squeaks in floors
A noisy floor means there is movement between board in the tongue and groove or the squeak is coming from the joists or subfloor. This can be a framing problem in the joist area, a loose sub floor, flexing/ weak sub floor system, a milling problem in the tongue and groove of the wood flooring or the result of excess moisture and excessive drying. In the case of glued down flooring, insufficient adhesion or use of incorrect products may be the cause. Fixing the problem means identifying what is wrong. Shims, re-nailing and brackets can fix framing problems and top nailing or replacing boards can solve milling/adhesion problems.
How do I find out what kind of finish is on my floor?
There is a wax test which may help identify if your floor is waxed or not.
Simple Test for Wax:
If there is any possibility that there is wax on the floor, we recommend doing both of the following tests to determine its presence. Do all tests in an inconspicuous area.
Alcohol Test: Apply a small amount (about 3” diameter) of ethyl alcohol to the floor. Allow it to sit 2 minutes, then wipe up with a clean white rag. If the wiped area is dulled and there is a residue on the white rag, then your floor is probably waxed.
Scratch Test: Scratch the surface with a fingernail . If your fingernail scratches the surface and buffing with a cloth erases it, you have wax. Water DropTest: Place several drops of water on the floor. Leave them for at least one hour. If white spots develop where the water is, there is wax on the area tested.
If wax is found, floor care would involve re-waxing and buffing. To change the finish to one of the other finishes it would require a total sanding down of the floor to raw wood and applying a new finish on. This is very common and relatively easy. Water Drop Test: Place several drops of water on the floor. Leave them for at least one hour. If white spots develop where the water is, there is wax on the area tested.
Simple Test for Surface Coats:
Water Drop Test: If water beads up and can be easily wiped up leaving no marks behind, then you most likely have a surface coat.
Scratch Test: A surface coated floor often gets scratches that can not be buffed out with a soft cloth.
Alcohol or Mineral Spirit Test: Wipe a small area of floor with rubbing alcohol or mineral spirits. If the test area is not dulled and the sheen remains the same, the floor has a surface coat
When to Refinish
Hardwood floors are durable and
long lasting. However, high traffic areas may begin to show signs of
wear long before the floors have worn out their beauty. How do you know
when the time is right for refinishing?
Refinishing is necessary when
- • Areas of the floor (usually high traffic areas) start to turn gray. This indicates that the finish has worn off
and raw wood is exposed to dirt and water.
- • Deep scratches or gouges need to be removed.
- • Pet stains, chemicals, or water marks have penetrated deep into the wood and will not come out with surface sanding.
- New wood has been patched into an old floor.
- • Water or fire damage.
- Decorating changes
 What does refinishing mean?
“Refinishing” means completely sanding a wood floor down to raw wood.
It involves using a drum sander and edger equipment. The floor is
completely sanded three times with three different grits
of sandpaper (Coarse, Medium, and Fine). If possible, this is the kind
of project should be entrusted to a flooring professional. Experience,
professional/well maintained equipment, and high grade finishes make
all the difference in getting a professional looking job.
How much cleaning is needed after a wood floor is refinished?
Refinishing can require a lot of cleaning.
Standard professional sanding equipment has vacuum bags on the sander
and the edger however there is still a fine flour-like dust that remains
behind, especially lower down on the walls. Taping off cabinets and
doorways helps contain any dust that remains. All furniture, personal
items, artwork and decorations need to be removed in the area being
refinished.
NOTE: Most Professionals offer a Dust Containment System.
In this process each piece of equipment is connected to a central
vacuum by hoses. This process contains anywhere from 90% - 100% of the
dust. Woodcraft
Wood Floors, Inc. offers this option using a Bona
Kemi Dust Containment System.
How many times can a solid wood floor be refinished?
A solid wood floor can be refinished 8 to 13
times. This may sound outrageous but it is true. At our showroom, we
held thirteen “Do-it-yourself Sand and Finishing” classes using
a nail down floor in a mocked up room. During the 13th class the nails
began to show.
This floor was completely sanded down to raw wood,
then
stained and coated with a finish during each class
(13
times!). A solid wood floor is considered a permanent floor. It will last the life time of most homes. There are homes on the East coast with original pine floor from the 1700’s.
Can I change the color of my
floor?
Solid wood floors like red oak, white oak and ash are the
best woods to stain. The procedure is to first remove
the old finish by sanding down to raw wood. From this
point the floor can return to its natural color or be
stained a variety of colors. NOTE: Some woods do not
stain well so this type of work should be done by a wood
floor professional.
When refinished, most floors look
different since new wood is exposed when sanded down to raw
wood. Even natural floors appear lighter because the
old finish usually changes color with age.
How does a stain work?
There are many different types of oil base and waterborne
stains. Stains are made of pigments or dye or both.
The colors can vary anywhere from neutral to dark tones.
The stain is absorbed mainly into the open (porous) grain of
the wood and less into the dense (summer) grain of the
board. See photo below. In the darker tones the
grain is almost black.
When to Top-coat
What does top-coating mean?
“Top-coating” means applying one coat of the same or compatible finish over
the existing finish. It does NOT involve sanding or any kind of dust
making processing. The floor is buffed with a light abrasive, vacuumed,
and then finished with one coat of finish. It is usually a one day
process.
Top-coating is recommended when
• There is an uneven sheen in the finish on the wood floor.
• There are light surface scratches/scuff marks.
• When dull areas appear in traffic areas indicating that some finish is gone.
• When the open/soft grain of an oak floor starts to discolor or gray “slightly”
Staining wood floors
If a customer is planning to stain a wood floor,
it is important to select a wood that “accepts” stain evenly. There are
only a few woods that are highly recommended: Oak and Ash. These
woods stain evenly and are compatible with most finishing products. It
is important to keep the floor looking as natural as possible. Darks
stains and unusual colors alter the natural look of wood. A dark color
also shows dust and scratches more than a natural floor and they are a
lot harder to keep looking clean. Any stained floor makes repairs
difficult to match.
The general rule is to use a light to medium penetrating stain for best results.
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